Worms need space to burrow and grow drainage and good oxygen circulation, so make sure you have enough area in your worm bed to allow the worms to eat and multiply. Generally, worm beds support 1 to 3 pounds of worms per square foot of surface area. Worms feed on the surface so bed depth doesn't matter when calculating the number of worms to be added to the bed. Outdoor beds should be at least 12 inches deep but no more than 16 inches deep. Depending on what is used for bedding any bed deeper than 16 inches may start to composed, heat up and cause the worms to crawl out or to the surface. Either way the worms are lost. If no composed material is being used then the bed can be dug to 3 feet deep.

A worm bin is a smaller container generally used in the home for vermicomposting. These bins are kept indoors safe from extreme conditions such as heat, cold and rain.

A worm bed is generally kept or built outdoors for larger quantities of worms. These beds can be made from a variety of materials, untreated lumber, bricks, concrete or cinder blocks. Avoid wood such as pine, cedar and redwood as they contain compounds and resins that can kill the worms. Pine absorbs water and softens allowing the worms to eat through the wood. Yes, worms under certain conditions will eat wood. The wood has to be soft, wet and mushy.

If you chose to use a container for a bed, almost anything can be used. As a young boy a buddy and I used an old unused coffin as a bed. We drilled some holes in the bottom for drainage, filled it with good earth, dug up a bunch of worms put them in and we grew worms all summer for our fishing trips to the local river. It worked very well. Other containers could be barrels, washtubs, old discarded refrigerators (without the door) or non-toxic plastic bins. Be sure to drill holes in the bottom to allow the rain to drain and provide oxygen flow to the bed. Line the bottom of the container with landscape fabric to prevent animals such as moles from getting into the bed. Moles eat worms!

In hot climates or typical continental climates (hot summers, cold winters) it would be prudent to shade the worm bed in the summer, but make sure there is good air circulation. When the cold weather comes bank or build up material such as compost or leaves to help insulate the bed from freezing. Another tip which works well is line the bed or container with at least 1 inch Styrofoam around the sides when you build it. If you line the bottom with Styrofoam make sure it has ample drainage.

Worms can be kept in compost piles as long as the compost is no longer hot and has enough material to protect the worms from extremes in the environment. Worms like compost piles as they provide adequate food and usually good air circulation. Don't turn the compost pile once the worms have been added as the pile could heat up again and kill the worms.

For bedding a variety of organic materials can be used. Crushed dry leaves, shredded newspaper (the ink these days is non-toxic), plant waste, horse or rabbit manure. Don't use waste from carnivorous animals or poultry waste. Poultry waste is high in nitrogen and may heat up the bedding. The bedding must be kept moist and loose. Turn it every 2 to 3 weeks to keep it lose and aerated. To begin, commercial beddings can to used such as Wonder Worm, Worm Bedding. If using commercial bedding to begin, make sure there is enough organic or decaying material available in the bedding or use a commercially produced worm food. Don't use animal parts or fats. Not only will they kill the worms, but it invites animals such as raccoons, skunks, etc.

A constant temperature, a moist worm bedding environment is a place for the worms to grow and breed. In a short time there will be hatchlings and young worms growing to healthy adults. Bedding does not have to be composed solely of organic materials. It is good practice to have a certain amount of soil in the bedding as worms need some dirt or fine sand for their gullets to process the food passing through them much like birds do.

Feed the worms green waste, in other words, compostable yard waste. Worms will eat kitchen scraps, paper napkins, newspaper, coffee and filter, tea, melon rinds and peelings. Vegetable matter is best, but make sure it is in small pieces or ground down. Oils will cause the worms to suffocate when it coats their skin.

After filling the bed with bedding, wet the bed until moist, lay the worms on top and let them burrow into the material. Within 20 minutes they should disappear into the bed. They create their own holes from the start. Remove any dead worms left on top of the bedding. Put feed over the bed sparingly about 20 grams per 100 worms, replenish when the feed disappears from the top of the bed. Check moisture content every day and use a sprinkling wand when water needs to be added. With time you will learn the proper amount, adjusting to the climate. Add about 1 inch of bedding filler once a month to give the worm's new bedding. Turn the bed once a month so the bedding stays loose. Do not stand on the bed as this will compact the bed and maybe crush the worms.

Follow these instructions and you should have happy healthy worms.